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从“南方”到“南方”：“中国制造”服装的全球南方在地化想象
From “South” to “South”: The Glocalized Imaginations of Made-in-China Clothing in the Global South
时尚文化因其遍在的日常性和突出的实践性较容易被学术研究忽视。随着“一带一路”倡议的纵深推进，中国成为全球南方日常时尚的重要供给者，时尚产品亦成为全球南方文化个体想象和认知中国流行文化的重要方式。研究选择“中国制造”服装在全球南方的流通作为研究切入点，通过跨国田野调查，关注全球南方文化个体如何理解和想象中国日常时尚文化。研究发现，中国商人成为塑造“在地化想象”的主要行动者，他们与非洲商人共同作为“新文化中介”，推动全球南方个体对“中国制造”的服装形成独特的“在地化想象”，主要体现为真实性想象、创造力想象和去平台化的数字抵抗想象。本文认为，相较于北方文化进入南方国家的过程，实现从“南方”到“南方”有效的跨文化传播，应基于实用主义视角构建三类核心想象：植根于日常生存的互惠性文化协同想象、植根于有限文化知识的民间命运关系协同想象和植根于“有根世界主义”的外来文化开放型想象。
Fashion culture is liable to be overlooked in academic research due to its pervasive everydayness and prominent practicality. With the deepening of the Belt and Road Initiative, China has become a major supplier of everyday fashion in the Global South, and fashion products have emerged as a primary medium through which cultural individuals in the Global South imagine Chinese popular culture. This study takes the circulation of “Made in China” clothing in the Global South as its research entrance, employing fieldwork research conducted in Guangzhou and Nairobi to explore how the Global South understands and imagine Chinese fashion culture. This study finds that the “localized imagination” of Chinese everyday fashion mainly encompasses three dimensions: the imagination of authenticity, the imagination of creativity, and a de-platformized imagination. Compared to the process of Northern cultures entering Southern countries, South-South transcultural communication should prioritize the following steps under pragmatism-driven conditions: (1) a reciprocity-based culturalsynergy imagination grounded in everyday survival needs, (2) a community-level synergy imagination of shared destinies built upon limited cultural knowledge, and (3) an openness imagination derived from rooted cosmopolitanism.
全球南方 / 时尚文化 / 跨文化传播 / 全球在地化想象 / 服装
The Global South / fashion culture / transcultural communication / glocalized imagination / clothing
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1. 此处根据中国海关HS编码61及62的数据统计。
2. 克里奥尔化（Creolization）原指欧洲语言与殖民地语言混合形成新语言的过程。该术语现扩展至文化研究领域，描述的是不同文化在同一地区相遇、碰撞、融合后，形成的一种既与源文化紧密相连又独具特色的、杂糅化的全新文化形态。
3. 以B15为例，他是一位收入水平较高、供职于本土官方媒体的高级记者，他也时常会到Gikomba market挑选好的二手服装，“我很开心你去过那儿（Gikomba market），我在那儿买了很多年，我身上穿的这件也是在那里买的，它看起来是不是不太像是二手的，款式也比较新（B15）”。尽管B15在二手服装市场购买衣服可能出于消费惯习的影响，但不可否认的是，二手服装已经嵌入到本地人日常时尚体系之中，成为本土时尚的一种重要表现形式。因此本研究不仅关注一手服装，亦需关注二手服装。
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