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Xiaohongshu Emerging as a Fashion Cultural Infrastructure and Reshaping Fashion Ideals: A Qualitative Research of Three Types of Fashion Bloggers
LIU Tingting, XU Deya
Chinese Journal of Journalism & Communication ›› 2023, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (6) : 59-80.
PDF(1608 KB)
PDF(1608 KB)
Xiaohongshu Emerging as a Fashion Cultural Infrastructure and Reshaping Fashion Ideals: A Qualitative Research of Three Types of Fashion Bloggers
Changes in labor specialization can stem from developments in industrial structure, changes in factors of production, employment structure, employment relationships, and transaction costs. The development of digital platforms has also led to the differentiation of labor types, which has become a topic of increasing attention. This paper conducts an empirical study on several Xiaohongshu (former) staff members, two MCN agency staff members, and 38 fashion bloggers to show that the expansion of Xiaohongshu has directly led to the professional differentiation of fashion Labor. This paper posits that Xiaohongshu’s data-driven operations, business model, and feminine focus have directly led to the categorization of fashion bloggers into three main groups. The first two categories encompass “established bloggers,” who have been promoting fashion brands either full-time or part-time before the advent of Xiaohongshu. Their attitudes towards Xiaohongshu can be further subdivided into “flexible established bloggers,” who are open to Xiaohongshu, and “resolute established bloggers,” who resist it. The third category is the “new bloggers” group, comprising “digital natives.” Their understanding of fashion is primarily shaped by their digital practices. Moreover, due to the opaque nature of algorithms, the significant involvement of MCN agencies, and the invisibility of the platform behind the platform, the operational mechanisms of the platform remain unclear to most MCN agency employees and individual bloggers.
digital labor / wanghong economy / fashion / platform behind the platform / (in)visibility
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